fashion in the early 20th century

 Fashion of the period 1900-1909


The fashion of the period 1900-1909 in the Western world continued the strict, long and elegant lines of the late 1890s. High stiff collars characterize this period, as do women's wide hats and bouffant Gibson Girl hairstyles. The new columnar silhouette, introduced by Parisian couturiers at the end of the decade, signaled the approaching abandonment of the corset as an indispensable garment.

women's fashion

With the decline of fuss, sleeves began to increase in size, and the 1830s hourglass silhouette became popular again. The fashionable silhouette of the early 20th century was that of a self-confident woman with full, low breasts and curvaceous hips. The "health corset" of this period took pressure off the abdomen and created an S-shaped silhouette.

In 1897, the silhouette was significantly reduced and lengthened. Blouses and dresses were puffy in front and puffed up into an early 20th century "pigeon chest" shape that extended beyond a narrow waist that sloped back to front and was often accentuated with a sash or belt. The necklines were supported by very high boned collars.

Floor-length skirts, often with a train, even for mid-decade day dresses. The fashion houses of Paris began to showcase a new silhouette with a thicker waist, flatter chest and narrower hips. By the end of the decade, the most fashionable skirts had come down from the floor and approached the ankle. The overall silhouette narrowed and straightened, starting a trend that would continue into the years leading up to the Great War.

In early 1910, a survey of wealthy female high school students at a private girls' school in New York showed that each of them spent an average of $556 ($16,170 in 2017) annually on clothing, excluding underwear, and would spend four times more. this amount with an unlimited budget.

Rise of haute couture

This decade saw the full rise of Parisian haute couture as the arbiter of style and silhouette for women of all classes. Designers sent fashion models or mannequins dressed in the latest styles to Longchamp, and fashion photographs identified the makers of individual dresses. In 1908 there was a new silhouette from Callot Soeurs, Vionnet at Doucet and most importantly from Paul Poiret. These styles were variously called Merveilleuse, Directoire, and Empire after the turn of the nineteenth century fashion they resembled with their tight skirts and high waists.

The new styles were high or indefinite waisted bodycon dresses, ankle-length skirts and long tunic-like jackets and called for a different "straight line" corset. The Paris correspondent for Vogue described this new look as "straighter and straighter... less bust, less hips and more waist... how slim, how graceful, how elegant...!"

Hats

Wide-brimmed hat with stuffed bluebird, ca. 1908

In the middle of the decade, huge, wide-brimmed hats were worn, trimmed with masses of feathers, and sometimes whole stuffed birds (hummingbirds for those who could afford them), or decorated with ribbons and artificial flowers. Bunches of wavy hair were in fashion, combed to the top of the head (if necessary, over horsehair pads called "rats"), and gathered into a knot. Large hats were worn with evening wear.

By the end of the decade, hats had smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep tops, and the overall effect of a heavy top was maintained.

Shoes

Shoes were narrow and often emphasized. They had a pointed toe and a medium heel. Buttons, patent leather and lace-up shoes were also produced and readily available. Similarly, there were shoes for all occasions; oxfords for a tailored suit, slippers with straps for formal occasions, or pumps with pearl buckles, and finally boots, which were often trimmed with fur to prevent the winter chill when traveling in a carriage in winter. In the early 1900s, shoes still retained the same Victorian era design. Shoes were usually made from sealskin or Moroccan leather. Sealskin boots were most common among people from a higher social class. Sealskin boots were known to be extremely durable and could be worn at any time of the year. Moroccan leather boots were more uncomfortable and stiff. The First World War caused this wealthy era to soften due to the tightening of sanctions on the trade in leather and other fabrics, and shoes began to have cloth uppers.